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Not the same old summer salads: 3 new takes on classic side dishes

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Grilled napa cabbage, red pepper and scallion with peanuts and lime-cilantro dressing. (Kathy Gunst/Here & Now)
Grilled napa cabbage, red pepper and scallion with peanuts and lime-cilantro dressing. (Kathy Gunst/Here & Now)

It’s summer. That means lots of picnics and grilling, and more time eating and cooking outside. But what will you serve with those grilled burgers, hot dogs, chicken, fish or tofu? How do you brighten a summer table with something other than the same old coleslaw, potato salad or tossed green salad?

It's time to rethink a few of these classic summer side dishes.

My summer potato salad combines cubes of tender potatoes with sauteed onions, thin slices of crunchy celery and radishes tossed with a tangy vinegar and olive oil dressing.

Coleslaw has never been so interesting as my grilled napa cabbage, grilled red peppers and scallions with a ginger-cilantro-lime dressing and crunchy salted peanuts.

And then I deconstruct a kind of Mediterranean salad by serving tender,butter lettuce leaves that you can wrap around grated carrots, cucumbers, tomatoes, olives, feta cheese, croutons and summer herbs.

So here are my three new takes on summer classics.

Summer potato salad with sauteed onions, radishes and herbs

Summer potato salad with sauteed onions, radishes and herbs. (Kathy Gunst/Here & Now)
Summer potato salad with sauteed onions, radishes and herbs. (Kathy Gunst/Here & Now)

This is not the traditional mayonnaise potato salad you see at every deli counter and picnic. This is its more sophisticated cousin. Potatoes are peeled and cubed and cooked in boiling water. Meanwhile finely chopped onions are sauteed in olive oil. The potatoes and onions are tossed with crunchy celery bits, scallion, thinly sliced radishes, lots of vinegar and olive oil, then sprinkled with herbs. It’s a great combination of textures, colors and flavor.

Serves 4.

Ingredients:

  • 2 large potatoes, about 1.5 pounds, peeled and cubed
  • Salt and freshly ground black pepper
  • 1½ tablespoons olive oil, plus ¼ cup
  • 1 medium onion, finely chopped
  • 2 ribs celery, thinly sliced
  • 1 large scallion, ends trimmed and then chopped
  • 3 medium radishes, thinly sliced
  • 3 tablespoons white wine or cider vinegar
  • ¼ cup finely chopped chives or parsley

Instructions

  1. Bring a large pot of lightly salted water to boil over high heat. Add the potatoes, reduce the heat to medium, and cook for about 12 to 15 minutes or until the potato cubes feel tender (but not falling apart) when tested with a small, sharp knife. Drain in a strainer and let cool for 5 minutes.
  2. Meanwhile in a medium skillet, heat the 1½ tablespoons olive oil over low heat. Add the onions, salt and pepper, and cook, stirring frequently, for about 8 to 10 minutes until tender and soft. Remove from the heat.
  3. In a large bowl, gently mix the potatoes, onions, celery, scallion, radishes, vinegar and remaining ¼ cup olive oil. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve warm or at room temperature sprinkled with chives or parsley.

Grilled napa cabbage, red pepper and scallion with peanuts and lime-cilantro dressing

Grilled napa cabbage. (Kathy Gunst/Here & Now)
Grilled napa cabbage. (Kathy Gunst/Here & Now)

This is a whole new take on summer coleslaw. Crunchy napa cabbage is grilled along with scallions and red pepper, then topped with a dressing made with ginger, fish sauce, lime juice and coriander, and sprinkled with salted peanuts. If you dislike cilantro feel free to substitute mint or parsley.

Serves 4.

Ingredients

The salad:

  • 1½ pound napa cabbage, cut in quarters, core intact
  • 1 tablespoon olive oil
  • 1 sweet red pepper
  • 2 scallions, ends trimmed
  • ½ cup salted peanuts
  • Several sprigs fresh cilantro, mint or parsley

The ginger-lime-cilantro sauce:

  • 1½ tablespoon fresh ginger, finely chopped
  • 2 tablespoons fresh cilantro, mint or parsley, chopped
  • 1 scallion, finely chopped
  • Juice of 1 large lime
  • 1 tablespoon fish sauce or soy sauce
  • 1½ tablespoons rice wine or cider vinegar
  • About ⅓ cup olive oil or vegetable oil
  • Salt and pepper to taste

Instructions

  1. Preheat a charcoal, gas or wood fire to medium hot, about 400 degrees. Place a grill rack on top and let it get hot. Brush the cut side of the cabbage with olive oil, place cut and oiled side down, and grill for about 8 to 10 minutes. Gently flip and grill for another 8 to 10 minutes on the other side. The cabbage should look slightly charred on the outside and softened but not cooked all the way through or falling apart.
  2. Place the pepper on the grill and grill for about 10 to 12 minutes, tossing it from side to side. The pepper is ready when it’s somewhat charred, softened and deflated. Remove from the heat, let cool and cut in half; remove the core and seeds and thinly slice.
  3. Place the 2 scallions on the grill and cook for about 8 minutes, tossing them from side to side, or until blackened and softened. I like to slice them down the middle lengthwise and add them to the salad.
  4. Arrange the grilled cabbage on a platter. Sprinkle the red pepper strips and grilled scallions on top.
  5. Make the dressing: in a small bowl, mix the ginger, cilantro, one scallion, lime juice, fish sauce and vinegar. Add the oil and salt and pepper to taste. Taste and add more oil if needed. The dressing will keep refrigerated for several days.
  6. Spoon the dressing on top of the cabbage and sprinkle the top with the peanuts and cilantro sprigs.

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Deconstructed summer salad

Deconstructed summer salad. (Kathy Gunst/Here & Now)
Deconstructed summer salad. (Kathy Gunst/Here & Now)

The tradition of filling lettuce cups with various ingredients is a popular method in Asian cuisine. Here I’ve given this summer dish a more Mediterranean spin — tender butter lettuce leaves are wrapped around fillings including grated cucumbers, tomatoes, carrots, olives, feta cheese and fresh herbs. Everyone can pick and choose their own ingredients and make a custom lettuce cup. You can add virtually any ingredient to this salad: nuts (pistachios would be great), cubes of tofu, seeds, chickpeas or cooked beans, grated raw zucchini, cooked cubes of chicken, shrimp, beef, or virtually any type of cheese. The herb and lemon dressing can be made several days ahead of time. Prepare the ingredients several hours ahead and then set out a platter filled with all the ingredients and dressing, and you have a perfect interactive party dish, ideal to serve with any type of grilled summer food.

Serves 2 to 3 as a main course and 4 as a side dish.

Ingredients

The deconstructed salad:

  • 2 tablespoons olive or vegetable oil
  • 1 cup bread, cut into ½ inch size cubes
  • 1 head butter or tender lettuce, leaves separated, washed and thoroughly dried
  • 1 cup shredded carrot
  • 1 cup shredded cucumber
  • 1 cup cherry tomatoes, cut into half or quarters, or medium ripe tomato, cut into small cubes
  • 1 cup thinly sliced green and or black olives
  • 1 cup fresh herbs like mint, basil, tarragon, parsley, thyme, lemon verbena — a combination of herbs is really nice

The lemon-herb dressing:

  • 5 basil leaves
  • 3 scallions, ends trimmed
  • ¼ cup chopped parsley
  • ¼ cup fresh lemon juice
  • ½ cup olive oil
  • Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Instructions

  1. In a medium skillet, heat the oil over medium-high heat. Add the bread cubes and cook, tossing occasionally until golden brown and crisp. Drain on a paper towel.
  2. Arrange the lettuce leaves at the far end of a large platter. Arrange the carrots, cucumbers, tomatoes, olives, herbs and croutons in small piles at the other end of the platter.
  3. Make the dressing: in a blender or food processor, blend all the ingredients. Taste for seasoning. The dressing will keep in a covered jar in the refrigerator for at least 4 to 5 days.
  4. Serve the salad chilled with the dressing in a bowl on the side.

This segment aired on June 27, 2024.

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Kathy Gunst Resident Chef, Here & Now
Kathy Gunst is a James Beard Award-winning journalist and the author of 15 cookbooks.

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